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Lung King Heen at The Four Seasons, Hong Kong

By:
Joanna Hall
 

Where Is It: The Four Seasons Hotel, near Central

Why Go: A classic Cantonese restaurant in an elegant environment with views of Victoria Harbour - need anything more?

Best For: Couples looking for a little romance in a special place.

The Three Things We Loved: The serene setting, the great view, the fantastic food.

The Ultimate Factor: Exquisite cuisine presented with perfection.

Overview:

What can you say about Hong Kong that hasn't already been said? It's a bustling metropolis, a meeting of East meets West in grand style, and has one of the most famous harbours and skylines in the world. And when it comes to dining, you're utterly spoiled for choice, whether you venture out into the back streets for dim sum, or dress up to frequent one of its many world-class restaurants. In a city like Hong Kong, however, every five-star hotel worth its salt has at least one fine dining experience to match, some with multiple high profile venues and chefs, not to mention Michelin star ratings. The Four Seasons near Central is one, with a standout being Lung King Heen, the world's first Chinese restaurant to receive no less that three coveted Michelin stars.

This is a venue of high glamour and expansive views, located in pride of place on the fourth floor of the harbourside property, and overlooking Victoria Harbour and Kowloon beyond. Its name translates to "view of the dragon" and it's a large, flowing space enjoying an elegant, contemporary design fused with Asian touches, from the highly polished floor, the glass and polished silver accents, and the impressive silver leaf ceiling, to the plush red fabric walls and traditional china. You can see the passion of Feng Shui prevalent here. Besides a dining environment which is pleasing on the eye, both inside and out, naturally the service is as you would expect in Hong Kong, and in an establishment such as the Four Seasons; courteous, helpful, and very much on the ball. Which is just as well, as Executive Chef Yan Tak's menu is quite something to tackle.

The Menu And Wine List:

A Cantonese restaurant at heart, Yan Tak is a recipient of three Michelin stars; the first Chinese chef to have such an honour bestowed on him. What's on offer for food lovers is a choice of lunch time dim sum, an expansive dinner menu or a specially prepared Chef's Tasting Menu, which is what we were recommended to try. It's a journey through not only Michelin-starred fine cuisine, but also the best that Chinese produce has to offer; there are often seasonal recommendations depending on the time of year. Wines are paired with the meal for convenience as well as suitability.

What We Enjoyed:

Our indulgent culinary experience began with a combination of appetisers; succulent Crispy Suckling Pig, Barbecued Pork with Honey, and Roast Goose with Plum Sauce paired with a Langenberg 1er Cru Dom, Marcel Deiss, France 2011. Next was a Hot and Sour Tofu Soup with Shrimp Wontons, followed by Simmered King Prawns in Champagne Sauce, paired with a 2010 New Zealand Kumeu River Chardonnay. There were two mains of sorts, starting with a fish dish; Steamed Star Garoupa Fillet with Ginger and Spring Onions in Bamboo Basket, paired with a 2011 Flors di Uis Vie di Romanns from Italy, and Wok-Fried Superior Australian Wagyu Beef Cubes with Sarcodon Aspratus and Capsicum. Both were accompanied by Fried Rice with Barbecue Pork, Taro, Onions and Preserved Vegetables.

After this, we had little room to move let alone consider dessert, but we were advised it was well worth the effort. What followed was a refreshing Chilled Mango and Sago Cream with Pomelo, paired with a rich French dessert wine from 2011, Jurançon Noblesse Du Temps Dom, Cauhapé. As is obligatory in China, we also had some tea; Supreme Phoenix Mount Organic Tea (Song Dynasty Species).

The Verdict: 

With all those Michelin stars, and such a memorable venue, this isn't an inexpensive dining experience. Nor, however, is it one for the faint hearted, with some many delectable dishes to try, some traditional, some exotic, and all beautifully prepared by a groundbreaking chef and his team.

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Lung King Heen is located at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central. For reservations call +(852) 3196 8880, and for more information visit www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/restaurants/lung_king_heen/

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