Joanna Hall relaxes into an all-inclusive luxury cruise to Papua New Guinea.

As we lean against the rail of our private balcony, flutes of French Champagne in hand, we can't help overhearing a nearby conversation. An American couple on the deck below say Sydney possesses the most beautiful harbour on the planet.

At this particular moment it's hard to disagree. Even at night, the skyline and illuminated outlines of the famous peaks of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge shimmer alluringly. Then again, the ship we were taking in the view from is no less impressive.

The Silver Whisper is one of the most luxurious cruise ships afloat - sleek, yacht-like, and one of five all-suite floating resorts in the Silversea Cruises fleet. It had arrived in Sydney the previous day on its annual exploration of Australasia, and was about to embark on a 22-day voyage to Hong Kong.

Weighing in at less than 29,000 tons, and carrying only 382 guests, the Silver Whisper is considerably smaller than most of the über-liners of many rival cruise lines. But ask any Silversea devotee and they will tell you that when it comes to service, size does matter. And for the ultimate in silver service, smaller is the way to go.

For a start, the staff-to-guest ratio means that you barely have to raise your eyebrows to get attentive service - anywhere on board. The ship has 295 polite and enthusiastic crew, who’s sole purpose in life is to pamper and spoil their guests. And with tipping included in the cruise fare, you won’t have to slip your waiter a few dollars to get a smile, or an extra olive in your martini.

We had joined the Silver Whisper for eight days of its voyage to Asia to see what all the fuss was really about, and to cruise through the Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea. Before heading out deep into the Tasman, however, after sailing north from Sydney we had a day-long stop in Newcastle, a pleasant, compact city packed with historic buildings and foreshore coastal walks.

The four sea days which followed, however, gave us plenty of time to explore the ship. Our accommodation was a veranda suite, which is the most common type on the Silver Whisper. Spacious, elegant, and stylishly European in flavour, in addition to a private balcony it also boasted a flat screen TV, DVD player, and a generous marble bathroom with separate tub and shower.

Due to its diminutive size, the Silver Whisper does not possess some of the newer innovations that many larger ships boast today. With five elegant dining options, three bars, a casino, a show lounge, and a fabulous spa, beauty salon and fitness centre, however, it was hardly lacking when it came to finding something to do.

The ship is also wireless, should you really feel the need to stay in touch with the real world, and there is an extensive library of DVDs and books if your idea of being active  goes no further than lazing around the pool and sipping cocktails.

Food is a central part of the cruise experience today, and along with service Silversea places great emphasis on culinary and wine offerings. Dining throughout the Silver Whisper is open-seating, which means you can dine with whom and when you want, and the two main venues are the main dining room, and La Terrazza which offers indoor and outdoor seating.

Competition in the cruise industry is fierce, and at the luxury end there are only a handful of truly five-star lines fighting for the patronage of discerning and better-heeled cruise passengers. In the case of Silversea, however, a major draw card is the  all-inclusive fare which includes accommodation, gourmet dining, complimentary wines, champagne and spirits throughout the ship, and all crew tips.

After four relaxing days afloat on quiet seas, we put our land legs back to work in Honiara, capital of the Solomon Islands. Located on the northern coastline of Guadalcanal Island, it’s a bustling city which evolved around a World War Two US military base, and was the site of some of the war’s bloodiest battles.

Here, we decided on a leisurely exploration of the city and environs, the highlights of which included the panoramic view from the US War memorial on Skyline Ridge, and a visit to Parliament House, a place of recent heated political conflict.

The next day was our last on board, and when it comes to wow-factor sail-ins, I hadn’t expected Madang to be especially memorable. But as the Silver Whisper eased into the mouth of the protected harbour, guests who were braving the early morning heat and humidity on deck were in mutual agreement that it was quite special.

The landscape was alluringly exotic, from the tropical lowlands to the distant mountain peaks piercing the purplish, rain-laden clouds. Local people watched our arrival with curious fascination: women fishing in tiny outrigger canoes; men huddled in small boats commuting to the mainland; and small children playing on the banks of the harbour.

Our exploration of Madang included visits to three villages. In Balek we enjoyed a gentle nature walk, and in Haya we learned about the evolution of a self-sustaining village and hiked through the bush. But the most colourful of the three was Bilbil, where we got to mingle with the villagers and watch an impressive cultural show.

After watching the energetic performance, the Silversea guests headed for much needed shade and lunch. Several crew from the ship dressed in their crisply starched uniforms, worked hard in the heat handing out picnic hampers from the ship, and pouring cold drinks to help quench our thirst in the heat.

One of the village elders sat and chatted with us as we ate. “They look after you well on this ship, no?” he asked, as one of the crew topped up our iced tea before the cup was empty. We couldn’t help but smile and agree. When it comes to silver service, Silversea certainly knows how to put on a show.

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