In ancient Fijian mythology, it was an important location as well as a safe haven for seafarers but today Likuliku is an idyllic getaway with more than its fair share of creature comforts, says Joanna Hall.

For the second time this evening, a small reef shark cruises underneath our overwater bure, eyeing up the shoals of tiny tropical fish gathered together under the spotlights. Through a large glass panel in the floor we watch as it gracefully glides over the colourful coral, sending fish scattering in different directions on each of its “runs”.

This is the end of a long day of snorkelling and soaking up the sun at Likuliku Lagoon Resort, but as we already discovered, the aquatic entertainment beneath our feet isn’t the only drawcard at what is arguably Fiji’s hottest five-start retreat.   

Attaching “five star” to a Pacific region resort may cause some travel cynics to raise an eyebrow, and although it’s true that many so-called top end resorts ultimately fall short, Likuliku has undoubtedly set a new precedent for luxury and service. A FJD$35 million project, it straddles an idyllic bay on a quiet slice of Malolo Island in the Mamanucas, and since throwing its doors open in 2007 it has won numerous awards and accolades. What sets it apart from the rest include its overwater and beachfront bures and bans on day-trippers, kids, and mobile phones (except in the privacy of your accommodation). All you will find at this resort are adults seeking temporary respite from the real world.

But Likuliku’s creators have also successfully fused understated elegance with a sense of remote tranquility, which is undeniably alluring. From the moment you set foot on the “arrival island” in the middle of the lagoon, you sense that this is a place where you can feel the sand beneath your feet without having to sacrifice the creature comforts that put the “stars” into a five-star resort. If you can afford it, the best place to lay your head is in an overwater bure, and while this is not a unique feature in the South Pacific, these accommodations could lay claim to being the best in the region. Stretching out like a necklace of pearls above the pristine coral, the overwater bures possess a design which blends European styling with Fijian accents.

Spacious, airy and modern, even the oversized designer bathroom is a retreat in its own right. The centrepiece is a solid marble, free-standing bathtub, which sits in front of a huge picture window opening out to an uninterrupted view of the lagoon and Castaway Island beyond.

Dining is also a key element of the Likuliku experience. The resort’s restaurant, Fijiana, is overseen by Brett Krystow, a chef hailing from Sydney’s Bather’s Pavilion, and who has created innovative Pacific Rim menus which showcase the finest local produce particularly seafood and tropical fruits. Surprisingly there is no room service at Likuliku, because of the distance between bures and the fact that the restaurant prides itself on serving the highest quality food, but Fijiana is a wonderful space in which to savour the resort’s fine cuisine. It has also been clearly designed with couples in mind; spacious and breezy, it has intimate nooks and crannies, and boasts jaw-dropping views across the lagoon from pretty much every table.

Lunch is an elegant three-course service with a choice of two main dishes and a Fijian-accented dessert, and evenings are casually elegant affairs with themed evenings embracing local cultural elements.

Dining aside, the resort has all the potential to allow you to be as busy or lazy as you choose. There’s an expansive infinity pool for lazing around, a fully-equipped gym, a tranquil day spa for a spot of pampering, and other activities include water sports and cultural activities including visits to the local village. And there’s snorkelling, which is surprisingly good.

Ultimately, however, it’s the sheer natural beauty of Likuliku’s unspoiled and tranquil location which is luring people to its front door. And to top off the Fijian cliché, it’s the perfect spot to catch a classic South Pacific sunset, with a fiery blend of orange, red and purple lighting up the glassy lagoon.