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Falling for Canada & New Englandby Joanna Hall
Photography by Ben Hall
When the east coast of North America erupts in a riot of fall colours, there’s no better way to catch one of nature’s great shows than cruising its famous waters.
It’s a serene and ethereal experience: the cruise ship glides quietly down the Saguenay River past lighthouses on rocky outcrops amid a seemingly endless forest. The leaves are turning yellow, the first sign of fall, and every so often we drift past remote colonial towns and quaint fishing villages which are a throwback to a bygone era.
It’s unbelievably quiet. Even the sea birds flying overhead make little sound and it’s hard to believe places like this actually still exist, and then the gorge on either side of the river becomes even steeper. In some parts it’s almost 500 metres on each side, rising almost straight up from the river, and then we see her - the statue of Notre Dame du Saguenay standing regally on top of Cape Trinity. At seven and a half metres and weighing three tons, "the Dame" was built to honour the Virgin Mary by a travelling salesman who tried to cross the ice on the river and then fell into the freezing waters. His recollection was that he was thrown back onto the ice, with his horse and cart, and he was so moved he paid for its construction in 1881.
Cruising the waters of Canada and New England in Autumn is more than just a way of experiencing the change of colours in the foliage - it’s also a passage back in time and one of the most pleasant ways of enjoying the natural beauty of this rugged region. The journey is confirmation that it is possible to escape civilisation, albeit in the comfort of a luxury cruise ship, and on board the Crystal Symphony, their 11-day Fall Splendors cruise is one of the best ways to experience one of nature's great shows in six star luxury.
The peak time for cruising in the fall varies, but generally September and October are best, but even if Mother Nature doesn’t co-operate, it’s an experience that’s not just for the “leaf peepers”. Historical cities, picture-postcard ports, deserted islands and the untouched wilderness is what makes this an increasingly popular way to journey the maritime provinces of Canada and the eastern seaboard of the United States.
Itineraries for cruising this region vary, but for sheer diversity it's hard to beat the Crystal Symphony's Fall Splendors voyage. For a start, it begins in Montréal - considered by many visitors to be one of the most "European" of North American cities, having joyously preserved and honoured the soul of its founding French and British cultures.
At street level, Montréal's Gallic roots are the stronger of the two cultures. French is the language of choice for the majority of the population (although almost everyone here is bilingual), and the architecture is a reminder why this is the case. Busy sidewalk cafés, cobblestone streets, wrought iron balconies, designer fashion boutiques - it could be an enclave of Paris and a wander into historic Old Montréal is a throwback to the 17th century.
Departing Montréal is heart breaking, but that’s forgotten by the next morning as the Crystal Symphony glides towards Québec City, a small jewel with three facets: the colonial settlement on the riverbanks, the walled city atop the cliff that towers above, and the modern metropolis that has spread far outside the walls. Towering regally over Québec City is one of the world's most recognisable hotels, Le Château Frontenac, which revels in its 19th century grandeur and commands sweeping views of the St Lawrence River. From down river the sight of Québec City is nothing short of magical and it resembles a scene from a fairy tale.
With old stone houses wedged between cosy cafés and bistros, and original centuries-old horse drawn carriages clip-clopping past on cobble stone streets, it's easy to feel transported back in time. Like Montréal, the people of Québec City embrace their French history with a passion and celebrate living in this great city with an infectious exuberance. A relatively compact city, Québec is a walker’s dream. There’s a photo op on almost every corner, the smell of baguettes and roasting coffee permeate the streets, and there are sweeping views of the surrounding countryside to be savoured from atop the walled city. Québec City is the only North American fortified city north of Mexico, where the walls still exist.
The Symphony’s designers resisted eye-popping glitz in favour of low-key elegance throughout and if she was a woman, she’d be an Audrey Hepburn or a Grace Kelly. Her exterior is equally as pleasing on the eye; sleek, classical lines, and not an ugly aft “spoiler” nor a bulbous bow in sight. She has a maximum capacity of 940 guests, and with 545 crew, it ensures the level of service is second to none and perhaps its greatest feature, apart from the staterooms, is the choice and quality of dining. The Crystal Dining Room is a classic, while Prego offers specialty Italian, and for lovers of Asian food Jade Garden receives rave reviews from most who are lucky enough to secure a booking.
As we left the St Lawrence behind and entered the Atlantic, some of the other guests were recounting horror stories of past cruises where eight metre waves battered their ship, forcing an emergency port layover for repairs. Not this time though, the Atlantic was like glass and behaved itself as we cruised into Halifax, Nova Scotia. Perched on the edge of one of the largest natural harbours in the world, Halifax has undergone a major transformation from a port town frequented by sea dogs to a world class tourist destination which has embraced its maritime past.
Halifax's numerous historic and cultural attractions are all within walking distance, from the Citadel itself to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, Maritime Command Museum, and the breathtaking harbour. A short distance away is the symbol of Canada's strength and resilience and Peggy's Cove is a photographer's dream set on a point in a classic fishing village with rugged cliffs and ocean as its backdrop. It’s a picturesque if touristy fishing village - famous for a whitewashed lighthouse which doubles up as a post office. The journey through pristine countryside was impressive enough on its own. At almost every winding turn of the highway; mirror-like lakes, brightly-painted cottages, and a sweeping landscape with enough autumn colours to make you feel like you’re in an Edward Hopper watercolour.
Another sea day allowed us to catch our breath for the final slew of ports along the north Atlantic coastline. The first was Bar Harbor, and no visit to New England is complete without enjoying the special experience of a Maine lobster. Bar Harbor prides itself on the freshness and quality of its crustaceans which is justified, and its laid-back vibe is a relaxing prelude to the big-city hustle and bustle of Boston.
Another day and another pretty port, this time Newport, Rhode Island, home of the America’s Cup and playground of the fabulously wealthy. The cliffside walk offers great views of the fantastic yachts in harbour and back from the water is where you’ll find some of North America’s most opulent mansions.
And to top all of this off, perhaps the highlight of the cruise: sailing into New York Harbor past Lady Liberty herself and under the shadows of the Manhattan skyline. Seeing New York and its harbour from the water gives it a totally new perspective, and on the Promenade deck everyone is quiet. It’s an overwhelming and humbling way to end a great journey.
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