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Banking on Caymanby Ben Hall
Photography by Ben Hall
It’s perhaps best known for its healthy population of banks, but there’s much more to this sleepy, former British Caribbean outpost than meets the eye.
As a heat haze rises off the asphalt roads, businessmen in designer suits walk and talk with mobile phones pressed against their ears. In a nearby bar, a steel band strikes up and English expats talk cricket over a gin and tonic. The Cayman Islands is distinctly Caribbean on the surface, yet very colonial at its heart, and it’s fast gaining a deserved reputation as a genteel island experience.
Until the 1970’s the Cayman Islands were a sleepy British outpost in the western Caribbean, but in recent years the population has grown and the economy has taken off in a big way. It’s now the fifth largest financial centre in the world and has more than 600 banks with assets in excess of $500 billion.
Here the fish seem bigger and brighter, and the water crystal clear and warm. Most visitors head for the resort areas around Seven Mile Beach on Grand Cayman. It's a dazzling stretch of palm fringed white sand surrounded by crystal clear aqua blue ocean. Even without snorkelling gear, it’s possible to see colourful fish darting around in the water right up to the edge of the beach. It’s perfectly safe as the ‘rays have become very tame and behave like pets after more than a decade of human interaction. The stingray feeding developed in the late 1980’s, after local fishermen noticed an abundance of the creatures, which are scavengers by nature, cleaning up on leftovers thrown overboard.
Another major attraction on Grand Cayman is the world’s only commercial turtle farm. About 40 per cent of the 8,000 hatchlings raised here each year are returned to the sea when they reach about a year old. In fact, since 1980, the Farm has released 29,000 turtles back into the sea to help replenish the wild population. The turtles are now protected and the Farm aims to provide an ideal breeding environment. Turtle numbers took a massive hit after Hurricane Ivan devastated Cayman in September 2004, and the Turtle Farm is working at rebuilding stocks of the majestic creature.
Conservation is also a priority at Cayman’s Butterfly Farm which is a world away from the island’s five-star resorts and luxury cruise ships. Inside a meshed and landscaped enclosure, thousands of butterflies fly freely around among the plants and waterfalls. It pays to wear colourful clothing and perfume - the butterflies are attracted to colour and the sweet smell and often land on people.
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